Singapore and Malaysia

Singapore – 25-28/08/14

The highlight of our stop over in Singapore was meeting our friend Marine and her children Eugene and Armance, a very old school mate of Alex. The kids were very close friends, 4 years ago and we were very pleased to get to see them again, especially as it was just as we had left it!

We stayed at Marine’s place, a beautiful traditional black and white Singaporean house. Although we had big rains everyday, it was still around 30 degrees and the showers were welcome to cool us down. When it was not raining the kids played in the garden or in the pool and they pulled comics and board games when outside was not an option. Alex discovered sway board which he was very good at very quickly, whilst Eugene was teaching Max how to build a zip wire in the garden. One day we left all the kids with Evelyn, the house maid, who took them to the water park; in the meantime, Rj and I took time to walk around Singapore city. A very modern city with lots of beautiful ultra modern glass buildings. Around Marina Bay, a new building looks like a boat on three towers, another looks like a lotus flower, one like a hedgehog. In town we saw some beautiful Chinese temples, we visited the renown colonial Raffles Hotel. In the city the people are young, smiley and polite but unlike Sydney, Singapore lacks personality and vibrancy. It is an odd thing to feel. Above the offices, below the shopping malls and food halls.

At night, the city lights up, the bars become lively, in Orchard Road, very loud music is played whilst lots of little restaurants provide European and Asian food in typical merchant houses. The street gets madly busy later and the centre on the drinking hub at later hours apparently…we don’t know, we are heading home to the kids!

Singapore also have a lots of beautiful green spaces and jungle forested areas. With the kids, we visited the Botanic Gardens a massive area with numerous themes such as medicinal plants, palms, historical plants as well as a discovery Center for kids where we saw yam, coffee, coconuts, bananas, papayas, and many more. We had a great time with our friends, but Singapore is not for us, a little like an Asian Switzerland.

 

Malaysia – 28/08 to 7/09/14

We had planned to reach Kuala Lumpur by overnight train from Singapore. Sadly the train was fully booked and we had to do the trip by plane intead, a short 45mn flight with Airasia. We booked the Pyramid Sunway hotel, recommended by a friend. Sure of the quality of the recommendation, I did not check the reviews or even the location, so what a surprise when, as the taxi drove through the road to the hotel, we found ourselves in the middle of a Disney-like world, with lots of fake carved statues of lions and mermaids. The big water park could be seen in the background, to the boys extreme delight. For us, it was our idea of a nightmare!

The lobby was huge, and decorated with brown marble and gold plated accessories. The room was of decent size but the carpet was dirty and when we found out that we had to walk to the hotel next door to access the pool and for breakfast, we considered reviewing our choice. As we exlored the area, in search of the pool and breakfast room, we discovered the partner hotel Sunway Resort & Spa, and were seduced by the more polished service, the easy access to pool and breakfast and their Club room offer (including afternoon tea and evening aperitif). And this is in this very oasis that we spent the next 4 days…The following day, we headed to the water park, to Ranj and my despair, but as a promise to the boys who had been so good at following us in our treks and adventures for the last 2 months, without complaining once. Thus, we spent the entire day, going down water slides, massive water funnel, speeding down water lanes, etc. To our great surprise, Rj and I had much fun and luckily we didnt feel too sick until the end of the day when our stomachs clearly had their share of abuse.

That evening, Dada & Lida surprised us with a visit and stayed in Kuala Lumpur with us for the following 4 days. 4 days in good company, of indulgence and laziness, spent relaxing by the pool, enjoying the delicious and copious multi cultural buffet breakfast, in the Club room, enjoying scones with cream and jam or little sandwiches and fruits or finally working out at the gym, trying to compensate for the over eating…We didnt see much of Malaysia over these few days especially as it coincided with a big bank holiday and massive celebrations taking place in town, making the center very difficult to access to. On our visitors last day however, we decided to hire a car and pop into town. We had a quick glimpse at the old railway station, the national Mosque and parked up to see the famous Petronas Twin towers. We enjoyed an overprice cocktail at the Sky bar of the Traders Hotel situated right opposite the towers to enjoy the sun doing down on the city and the towers lightning up in the dawn of the day. We finished our Day in Chinatown, as it was recommended to us. There must have been a nicer part in the area but we only found the popular market and its stalls of Chinese food and fruits and vegetables and cheap handbag replicates. Amongst those, the canteen like restaurant for which we finalise succumbed by lack of alternative. Although Rj and the kids had strange bowel movements for the next couple of days, we made it.

On Wednesday 3rd september, we drove Dada and Lida back to the airport, swapped for a smaller car and headed North for an expedited discovery trip of Malaysia.

The road takes us through thousands of kilometers of coconut tree plantations. Palm oil is the main revenue of Malaysia. We aimed for Pangkor Island, the closest nice beach resort to KL it seemed. We found very few reviews of the place but the pictures of the island looked good. With no hotel prebooked and a vague idea of how to get there, we switched on Tom Tom and headed adventurously. As we got to Pangkor ferry jetty, we found out that the ferry is for foot passengers only and that the rental car would not be of any use there! We debated what to do, reviewed our options and decided to leave the car behind. We hopped into the first and last ferry crossing for a mere 8 GBP return for all of us.

Pangkor must be about ten kms long and 5 wide. The Eastern side closest to mainland is where the little town is. Not europeanised at all, the community, to the image of the country, is a fantastic mix of colours and cultures: the Malay, the Indians and the Chinese cohabit harmoniously. We saw, sat side by side in the food halls, the fully covered muslim women, the indian women dressed in sari, the chinese dressed in Occidental clothing, all speaking the same language, Malay, English and Smile. The Malay are amongst the nicest people we have ever met, extremely polite, very helpful, all smile and extremely caring. They thank you with their hand on their heart, the smile with their eyes and heart, they are truly special people.

During this visit to Malaysia, I could not help but thinking of that plane that mysteriously vanished above the Indian Ocean and that simply shot down by the Russians in the recent months. Indeed we’ve noticed the soar left to the Nation by these two tragedies: the big yearly celebrations that take place end of August weren’t as big as usual this year as commemoration to the lost ones. People have mentioned it here and there, subdued to the idea that they will never know or understand what happened. I feel upset, knowing that these people, so kind and giving, have lost so much and that the World does not seem to care…

So we stayed in a small hotel on the Western side of the island. The only “proper” hotel on that side, it provided us with simple but pleasant accommodation. Most of all, we were a stone throw away from an beautiful white sand beach. Very similar to the Brazilian beaches we already know, but tidier as already more exploited for tourism. However, we were there mid week of a non holiday period and the speedboats and sausages were safely tucked away leaving the quite white sanded beach to our single use. The waters are turquoise blue, the sand beach curves and soon turns into a rocky water side where massive boulders sit on the white sand. Two small islands covered in palm trees and jungle are in proximity, amongst which Pangkor Laut, a privately owned island with one of the most exclusive resort in Asia. Following some fishermen that I see sneaking through the boulders and the jungle, we reach a pristine creek, with the clearest waters, the whitest sand, the roundest boulders, the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.

From there we decide to swim across to the neighbouring island, approximately 500m away. The water is as warm as bath and is see-through for the first 20m. It take us a little while as the current slows our progress but we reach the small island easily. We were so impressed by the boys and they were extremely proud of themselves! We play there for 45mn, looking for shells and corals and decide to head back to main land the same way we came but this time the current is in our favour and we get back much faster. The taxi driver had told us that only the English swam across to the islands!

In the evening, we enjoy a candlelight alfresco dinner on the beach: Daddy’s Restaurant, the only restaurant on the beach serves cocktails and fresh watermelon juice, beautiful Malay food with curries and fresh seafood. Perfect!

We finish our mini trip through Malaysia by a quick visit to Cameron Highlands where a windy road takes us through the jungle. We see beautiful little villages tucked away by the side of the road, fruit merchants selling mangosteen, wild mangosteen, rambutans, coco juice, etc. Cameron Highlands is well known for its strawberry farms but we will not reach them as we are running out of time. Time to head back to KL tomorrow we have to catch our flight to Japan!

A little hop in Australia : discovering Sydney & the Blue Mountains

We landed in Sydney with no great expectations. We had heard Australia was a nice place, some of our friends completely fell in love with it but we didn’t think it would be for us. The main reason for our quick stop over was to see the Opera House as this was Alex’s main request for this trip. It is also the only way for us to travel from South America to Asia. But it is winter here and we knew it wouldn’t be the best time to visit the country.

But somehow we fell in love with Sydney straight away. A beautiful young, dynamic, creative city, with sun and sea. A perfect version of London! We stayed in an airbnb near Hyde Park. The area was full of funky little cafes and restaurants. We quickly discovered Buster Brown on Crown Street, where we met Dominic, a French chef that never went back home. We walked everywhere and our first stop was the Opera house. Alex was delighted as this was the one sight he had asked to see during this trip. He was however somewhat disappointed when we found out that we couldn’t get in to visit as it was closed. We walked to Darling harbour, one of Sydney popular hot spot and, on some passer-by’s recommendation, we found a great little playground with water games for the boys. We visited Sydney aquarium, which is I must say the most impressive one we’ve ever seen:  the sharks tunnel is the best we have come across and there were plenty of animals to be spotted and even touched! We visited the little zoo, own by the same company but were very disappointed: beside a massive alligator, there was not much to see there. We walked to The Rocks, an old part of the town and down the commercial streets where we discovered beautiful old little galleries, amongst which the elegant and nostalgic The Strand and further on the Victoria’s Building, a beautiful building dating from the late 1800’s . In fact, everywhere in the city, we found beautiful remains of British architecture, like the Old Hopital, the Old Government House, Hyde Park barracks, ….

It was winter in Australia and the weather was not great but this didn’t stop us from walking everywhere. Armed with our umbrellas we strolled through Hyde Park, walked to the bridges. On the nice days we stopped for coffee on the steps of the Opera House and a light lunch on the parade along Darling Harbour, what a pleasant city!

We decided to extend our stay and to stay an additional three days and took the opportunity to go and visit the Blue Mountains. We rented a car and did a three hour drive west of Sydney. We visited the delightful little town of Leura and checked into the Three Sisters Motel in Kattoomba. Ranj had a flash back and recalled his trip to America as a young man. The following day was grey but we decided to go an see the Three Sisters, a three-peaks rock near the small town. The fog was so dense we could not see further than 20 meters and we decided to head on a small trek instead. We ended up walking for over three hours: we walked down a eight hundred step steep staircase leading us to the bottom of the valley from where we headed to a waterfall. At the bottom of the cliff, the Valley is a true jungle and we walked amidst the tall trees, bamboos, giant ferns and eucalyptus trees, following a little muddy path running all the way along the bottom of the valley. One part of the walk was under the suspended rock of the mountain, and we felt like proper explorers. After 5 kilometres or so we reach the busier side of the valley, the Scenic World, where a cable car and a  funicular are available to go up and down and across the valley offering a beautiful of the 3 peaks.

After the beautiful little trip out of the city, we made the most of our rented car and headed to Watson Bay, the furthest bay on the Sydney Eastern side. Recommended by our friend Julie, this place is a little jewel of a hideaway: a beautiful beach, surrounded by coffee shops and seafood restaurants, with a little park and a view Point where you can see the 2 sides of the bay. We had fresh seafood at the deck of the famous Doyles restaurant, on a gorgeous hot summer day, with everyone nibbling on seafood or sipping on a cool drink whilst enjoying the park and the beach. The perfect ending for our Australian stay!

 

A taste of Chile

We landed in Santiago late at night and straight away we appreciated the modernity of the place: the motorway was immaculate, the road side clean, tidy and decorated with beautiful flower beds. The signage was modern, the road was light up! What a radical change between two neighbouring countries!!!

We settled at the Directors hotel in an area of Santiago called Vitacura. The first day we took a taxi to the centre, in the middle of the old city. The town is full of historical buildings, beautiful architecture. I loved the art museum which is a building copied from the Halles of Paris. The Plaza de Armas is full of beautiful old buildings, nearby is the Catedral Metropolitana, full of stunning paintings and sculptures and the magnificent Palacio de la Moneda. We walked in the little back streets of city, full of merchants selling cheap clothes and accessories. We walk through a little city park which was full of families with children as it was bank holiday that day where we found a beautiful and very expensive little French Cafe. We strolled through the art market as night fell and headed back to the hotel.

The second day we took the city bus, that took us all over the city, we find that these buses give you a good overview of the city as well as interesting commentaries. On our way to the bus stop we discovered the area of Vitacura, a gorgeous, very well off area full of trendy coffee shops, interior design and furniture shops, Designer fashion, etc. we felt like in Los Angeles as the roads were wide, the houses large and the front loan perfectly manicured. It was so confusing having moved front such extremes in less than 24h! How could 2 neighbouring countries can be so utterly different?

That day was very hot (we had gorgeous weather throughout although it is winter here), as the bus stopped in Bellavista, we decided to walk up Cerro San Cristóbal and trekked for 2h. Our lungs, still under the effect of living in high altitude for 10 days, were strong and we pretty much ran up the mountain. At the top we found ourselves in the city’s sports hubb where everyone is running, cycling just like in Hyde Park or Center Park! We took the famous vintage cable car down to , which was fun and saving a bit of the few precious hours left in Santiago. Here again, our stay felt far too short, once here we discovered that there is a million things to be done in the area and that the Chilian landscape is stunning. Again we promise ourselves to return to Chile to explore, one day, this gorgeous country.

A little taste of Bolivia

On August 12th, we arrived in La Paz bus station at 2pm. The express bus that did the trip from Puno only stopped for the Bolivian border. The Bolivian border crossing has a very bad reputation and we had dreaded that stop . We had heard and read lots of comments on blogs and website on how the bolivian custom agents can find ways to extort your money, hold you back a number of hours or find something wrong with your paperwork; we were on our guards. We had to get down the bus and go into the Peruvian side to get our exit stamp, walk across the bridge/border together with hundreds of locals carrying stacks of mobile phone boxes, toilet paper packs, soft drinks, and all sort of black market products loaded on hand karts. On the other sides we queued for 1h to enter a very sad building, with an overwhelming stench of pee, and where old ladies, were squatting down begging. Thus were the corridors of the Bolivian border offices: a reflection of what was about to come? Getting the stamp was straight forward, no questions asked, no luggage search, we were through, safe and sound for now…

We got to La Paz around 2pm that day, we had 3 hours before our next bus: a nightbus to Uyuni and the salt lake. We had decided to go at the last minute. We had given up on the idea and thought it would be too much of a rush, but after meeting Marina in Brazil and then Benjamin in Aguas Calientes who had been raving about the place, we decided to go for it. We only had 24h but we would visit the salt lakes of Uyuni. With the help of Lipiko Tours, a travel agency based in La Paz, we booked an overnight bus trip to the little town, we will be there at 6am, have time for breakfast, take a day tour to the lake, the train cemetery, the Cacti Island, be back for 5pm and take the return night bus to La Paz the same evening. I was wondering if the boys would cope.

So here we were in La Paz at 2pm, met with the travel agent, got the vouchers, and just had time for a lovely lunch at La Casona’s Cafe, a gorgeous little café on the ground of a gorgeous hotel. Perfect refreshment stop.

At 5pm we were back at the bus station. We expected a luxury bus to spend the night in. Instead we settled in a not so clean, tall bus deprive of all luxury but offering reclining seats. To our avail, a thick blanket. We were about to spend the next 10 hours in the bus.

We hit the road Bolivian style, the bus forcing his way through the thick traffic, turning 3 lanes into 4 leaving merely a couple of inches between vehicles.

We reach rough roads soon after leaving the city, which hardly slows down the bus. Soon the rough road turns into mud roads and for so it will be for the rest of the trip. As night fell, we fell asleep with the rocking and roaring of the bus. As at night went by, the temperature dropped and the path used as road was full of holes and bumps, sharp turns, with no lighting or signage! It felt like a roller coaster ride in the dark!

As dawn rose, we woke up from our shaky sleeps to find frost all over the windows, the temperature over night reaches -10 at this altitude. The sky filled with beautiful colours and as the first rays appeared the air slowly warmed up. The land is arid, a moon like surface, a yellow desert with mud houses. Rock, sand, earth surrounds us as we reach the little town.

We got to Uyuni at 7am and walked through the deserted town in search of a cafe. Once refreshed, and our stomach lined with food, we walked in the fresh air and the warm sunrays towards the travel agency. The place was already buzzing with tourists -Europeans mostly- getting ready to go. With the chaos, we seemed to have been forgotten and our departure was delayed nearly 30 mn. An old man was allocated as our driver/guide, which wasn’t an issue until we realise that he couldn’t see well and instead of following the path of the other cars, he would take a wider, safer route. Our first stop was at the train cemetery, an area where old relics of trains were left to rust. Not of must historical interest but certainly an interesting landscape to photograph. Our driver, who was also due to be our guide, left us half a mile away from the spot, pointed at the site and told us we had 10mn, we expected a little more from our driver / guide and decided to return to the agency to get a proper guide. We had called the agent in la paz to tell him so by the time we got to the local agent, the lady in charge was clearly unhappy. As we asked for a younger driver/guide we were straight away accused of discrimination. Our queries turned very quickly in accusations and before we knew it, she was threatening to call the police, the one thing I would avoid in Bolivia. As we challenged her with this, we called the agent in La Paz who could hear the screams and hysteria in the background, the woman now accusing her to hit her (an entire desk was separating us), and as we smiled at her hysteria and exaggerations, she carrying on saying we were abusing her! After a light night sleep, this is not exactly what we had in mind. She called on to her 2 colleagues as witnesses and as I could see the situation was getting dangerously twisted, we decided to leave straight away.

We had to wait a couple of hours before another guide was sent to us, but it was worth it. Our new Guide was very gentle and kind and was a proper guide. She managed to squeeze the program of the day in half one, although still a little shaky about the whole experience.

We reached the lake, dry at this time of year, very quickly. It is dry season here so the ground is dry and has a honeycombed pattern to it, which is due to the expansion of the salt as it dries. Absolutely amazing. hundreds of square kilometres of the beautiful landscape, and this 6m deep! We visited La Isla Pescado, or Cactus Island, an island covered in cacti, an impressive sight in the middle of the lake; The Salt Hotel, a beautiful piece of architecture exclusively made with salt bricks and wood; a salt family factory, and it was time to head back!

The return trip felt even more epic that the way in as we were sat right at the front of the bus, thus witnessing the madness of the driving. Rj felt sick to his stomach at the site of the road and hardly managed to sleep as if every bent and down hill was an eminent danger, but we got ‘home’ save and sound once more and pleased to have got out of this incredible experience. A beautiful day that will not be forgotten!

We spent the following 3 days in La Paz. A mass of concrete, sat in a pollution cloud, jammed inside a valley and crawling up the hillsides all around it. The traffic is mad, the city is busy and from above must look like an ants nest. The side streets are narrow, often steep, and twirly. But La Paz has a lot of charms and Rj falls in love instantly.

We stayed in a hostel in a central popular area in town. Nearby is the beautiful San Francisco church, lots of tourists shops where you can buy extremely cheap Bolivian textiles, alpaca items and antiques and relics. A couple of streets from us is the famous witch market: narrow cobbled streets lined with little shops where straw baskets and wooden tables display the oddest items: dried alpaca foetus, dried alpaca legs, herbs, shells, claws, bottles with strange mixtures, sweet looking foods in fluorescent colour…The little shops wall are covered with shelves full of mixes and potions, boxes with unknown contents and on the tables outside are displayed some ‘packages’ on offer: a gift wrap containing a selection of fake food, fake money, a bottle (of alcohol?), an alpaca leg…These gifts seem to be made to measure to make the perfect charm, depending on what you want to wish the receiver, good or bad! There are queues in some of the shops, people coming to have their potions made: for health, for love, money, success…

A couple of streets down the road, to satisfy our taste for non touristy spots, we venture in the popular food market, recommended by a local guide for the best local food available. It is a big building with 4 floors, completely open, like a car park. Inside 2 little alleys follow the sloppy road up the building, alongside which hundreds of little stalls serving local dishes (soups, fried meats, eggs, rice) and all sort of simple but delicious food. Others offer cut fruits, some fresh juices, we are spoilt for choice. We finally settle (we have 4 opinions to take into account which make decision making tricky sometimes!) for a little place offering a noodle soup. As we sit down on the benches amongst the locals already eating, the lady brings us a massive soup bowl, as well as a plate full of rice, fried egg and panned beef. We are so full! All that for £1.2 each.

 

As we stroll through the streets, we come across an old lady squatting and relieving herself on the edge of the pavement, her long traditional black skirt hiding her privacy. What a sight! The boys found that hilarious!

We didn’t venture much further in La Paz or Bolivia, by lack of time, sadly. As we left La Paz we flew above the Atacama desert, the sights were amazing and we would love to go back and take time to visit the country, maybe one day….

A taste of Rio

 

 

Copacabana Beach

 

 

TADAAA!

Easy as….

From….ooh why didn’t we get you in sooner you strapping young man!

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To…. Are you sure about this… Image

To… our first load: Image

To… I’m really not so sure about this… Image

To… a flat in box… Image

And now all we have to do is find a tv so we can watch England v Uruguay!